a self-supported bicycle tour through South America

14th - 20th August 07 Total: 780miles/1248km

Piura > Naupe (65miles/104km) > Chiclayo (104miles/166km)

Jen: From Piura we anticipated a long flat deserted road smack bang through the middle of the Sechura Desert. After asking for directions as to how to get out of the city from the owner of the hotel, we found ourselves adding an extra 60km to our 2 day trip to Chiclayo by taking the alternate route that bypassed the desert road which apparently is full of thieves and very dangerous for women travellers (that’s me!).
Reluctant as we were to add more distance to our journey, we anticipated this route to be more cyclist friendly due to the many more apparent water stops along the way. With the added burden of an extra 60km, our (ok my) start was very slow. I find it hard to get going in the mornings. Motivation is very lacking especially after a dodgy croissant breakfast (no lasting energy in a croissant!) Slow starts are usually followed by words of irritation from the Mountain Goat, which are then followed by words of defence from the Slow Coach, and then what do you know? Full blown “you’re dumped, I’m going home” argument followed by more cycling but this time in opposite directions!
Needless to say, we kissed, made up and then started cycling in the same direction again. We had been expecting these types of “discussions”, and are pleasantly surprised to note that this is the first. Even after all the hills of Ecuador.

We made good ground this day and the roads were friendly toward us until the afternoon when the headwind picked up. Afternoons are a bugger. We camped in the sand dunes amongst thorn bushes away from the sight of the traffic, and seemingly away from civilisation. I love this time of the day. It means no more cycling for at least 10 hours.
We have a little routine going when we reach our campsite. First off, we take off our cycling shorts to allow for some “breathing time”. One must ensure that hygiene is maintained at all times. Interesting sight for the middle of the desert though! We then set up the tent and put the dinner on. Having replaced naked bottom with trousers (hygiene please) I prepare the food: chop onions (purchased that afternoon out of a car boot), chop garlic, chop chorizo, chop tomatoes, chop carrot, and string the beans (all of this is done with the Gerber and the lid off the Pringle box – we figured a chopping board was too much of a luxury item!). I then throw it all into the pot with a helping of paprika, a little salt, and then leave to simmer. This is our Chorizo Paprika Stew. Simon does the rice. I don’t cook rice unless I have an electronic rice cooker (thank my Mum for that one). We are, admittedly, a little tired of this camp stew but we are yet to come up with another easy option that doesn’t involve keeping things cold and still involves meat. Suggestions would be hugely appreciated.
During dinner we turn our phone on and wait for any messages to come through. It is such a buzz when we receive messages from home. We know though that over a weekend that these are far and few between!
The following day we started with a crippling uphill, a downhill and an early start to the headwinds. By lunch time, we had agreed that we were going to try and push for Chiclayo and a hot shower that evening. According to the map, this meant a total of 164km, but we thought the map had been out the day before so figured we only had to make 140km. You have no idea what the prospect of a hot shower, and a hot meal (that you haven’t had to cook yourself) can do for your motivation levels.
But the wind got stronger, and stronger. A few tit for tats ensued ( I am still learning to cycle close to Simon’s back wheel to assist with drag and make my work load less) as I couldn’t keep up. I also find it very difficult to keep pedalling when, for example, I need to scratch or have a drink. The Mountain Goat gets very tetchy with me. I thought women were supposed to be good at multitasking? Perhaps we are, but not whilst cycling along a road at 20km/h into a headwind.
Our travelling speed reduced progressively through the afternoon as we got closer to Chiclayo and the dodgy shanty towns that formed the outskirts. The headwind was so strong that we could only manage about 7km/h. We eventually got to Chiclayo after 2000hrs. We had been cycling in the dark with head torches into a relentless headwind on the gravelly verge. Just horrible, but we didn’t have any choice but to keep going. We arrived at a hotel in the centre of town to find a full house! Not in the mood for this. We suspected that they weren’t really that full but just didn’t fancy having two very dirty looking and crabby cyclists staying on the premises.
We were then lead through the back streets to another hotel that, thankfully, had rooms, but to our dismay no hot water! That soon fixed, we were found enjoying dinner and a nice cold well earned beer nursing sore bums and just grateful that we weren’t still on the road.
The following day we woke very early to the sound of the kitchen above us mixing eggs and making fresh juices with the faint sound of the local rooster crowing in a street not far from us. And all this through ear plugs! Not conducive surroundings for a rest day for weary heads. So, we walked back to the inn with no rooms from the night before and were, surprise surprise, told that of course they had space for us!
4 days, a pedicure (I know, my present to myself for my first Simon Century), copious amounts of route planning , 3 Hallmark movies, two stomach bugs and a day in bed later we are decidedly cabin feverish and dying to get back on the road (perhaps not dying to get back on the saddle though). Next major destination: Lima.