a self-supported bicycle tour through South America

With every intention of making our foray into the mountains as worthwhile as possible, we wanted to do as much as we could. With a recommendation from Julio and a little reading in the local guide book, we decided on making a trip to Llanganuko (glacier fed lake high up in the mountains) and the Huascaran National Park. A 6 hour round trip drive south of Huaraz would be rather unwelcome to the average bus weary traveller, but to those saddle sore amongst us, it was actually a pleasant way to see the surrounding countryside without having to bust a gut climbing hills on dirt tracks for 3 days! The climb up to the Park was spectacular. We passed through classic mountain villages with views over the countryside to rival coffee table books. Our taxi driver didn’t speak any English but was very helpful with his hand gestures and we were able to get a general idea of what he was showing us; the fields of potatoes, maize, corn and gladioli (interesting to note here that there is no Spanish equivalent) tirelessly attended to by ladies in bowler hats and brightly coloured woollen skirts. When you think that you have had a hard day at work, try and think of being bent over in a muddy field under a scorching sun sowing seeds all day long - day in, day out, year in, year out. Certainly makes one realise how lucky we truly are.

We left early so as to avoid the crowds, and arrived at the gate to the National Park around noon where we signed in and paid our entry fee. To our surprise the Park office housed a stuffed Peruvian Condor which we took great pleasure in having our photo taken with. The Mountain Goat was somewhat curious to know how exactly the bird had come across this fate, and upon closer inspection decided that it really wasn’t worth the trouble to know. Stuffed animals are really unpleasant up close….

Our driver dropped us at the Santa Maria walk which we were told would take about an hour to reach the Lake. We figured our Crocs could manage this (yes, we have Crocs. I know, very ugly shoes but incredibly practical for travelling as they are very light and if they get wet, dry quickly) so off we went.

Our first stop was photo opportunity number 1; picturesque mountain stream with sheer cliff faces as a backdrop. It was absolutely idyllic until we discovered that we were in fact being eaten alive by giant mosquitoes. I had, fortuitously, worn trousers whilst Simon had decided that his legs required a little sun that day and had worn shorts. As the mosquitoes dived for his legs and weaved their way through the hair, we frantically wrapped our jumpers around his legs to try and cover them as much as possible. This was too little too late. Breathlessness at 3,800 meters, seven itchy bites each, an hour slipping in Crocs, and a decidedly questionable fashion statement later, we arrived at the lake to one of the most spectacular views we have seen so far.

The colour of the water was incredible. I don’t think that my words would do it justice so I will just let the photos speak for themselves. Just as the busloads of tourists jumped in the boats for their obligatory trip around the Lake we headed further up the mountain for some more spectacular scenes of the nearby glaciers. We were told by our driver that there are many hikes that start from the Lake ranging in duration from three to ten nights. I can only imagine how incredible these treks must be. The scenery must be out of this world.

After a few hours, we headed back to Huaraz stopping in Carhuaz on the way for icecream. Carhuaz is apparently very famous for its heladarias (ice creameries) and they even go as far as to make an ice cream that tastes like beer. I am waiting for the Inca Kola ice cream to hit the shelves. Only in Peru.

We thoroughly enjoyed our day to the Lake although we did feel a little sad for not being on a bike. One experiences so much more when cycling. You feel closer to what you are seeing and experiencing than you do travelling in a car or by bus. We are both missing the interaction you have with the road and the people you pass along the way.

We returned to Huaraz late in the afternoon thoroughly exhausted - the Mountain Goat even waking himself up snoring in the car on the way back. I hadn’t anticipated needing to use my ear plugs for a car journey. Note to self: must take ear plugs with me everywhere in case of unforeseen snoring from the Mountain Goat. Lesson learnt.

That night we enjoyed an incredible Thai dinner that was by far our most expensive meal since arriving in Peru. The more touristy a place is, the more they charge for food. Why is that? Do I feel exploited? Slightly, but nevertheless, our time in Huaraz has been lovely.

Interestingly, Huaraz experienced a major earthquake in 1970 measuring 7.8 on the Richter scale that severely damaged most of the city and killed 70,000 people. The earthquake dislodged an enormous block of ice from Huascaran (one of the glacier peaks we had seen overlooking Llanganuko) that produced a huge avalanche of mud and stones that completely buried the city of Yungay (a town we passed through on our way to the Lake) in a matter of minutes. It is so hard to imagine the force that could produce such tragedy.

Julio had told us that he was at school that day with his three brothers and 450 other people performing in a commemorative concert for the Presidents ‘birthday. He said that only 50 people survived. I can’t even begin to understand what it would be like to experience such devastation….and then to survive it as well. Huaraz must have been a beautiful Andean city before the earthquake as we noted upon cycling through the only street that had survived the quake. But a corrupt military government at the time meant that very little of the money given to the city for repairs was actually seen by the people. This, we think is why so many of the buildings and roads in the town are seemingly unfinished.

Next stop the border of the Huascaran National Park for a bit of R&R at the Lazy Dog Inn. We feel we are on a little bit of a mini break. [Jen]