a self-supported bicycle tour through South America

12^th - 13^thSeptember Puno - Juli (81km) - Copacabana (64km)

After nearly 3 weeks of being regular tourists, we had mixed feelings about getting back on the bikes to cycle through to Bolivia. We had enjoyed being regular tourists for a while (and feeling we could get the camera out without fear of it being nicked!), but after clocking the same people in the same restaurants every night all talking about the same thing we were starting to get a little bored with the whole tourist thing and were very much looking forward to getting back to the freedom of the bike.

The freedom of the bike however does bring with it added pressures; exercising at 4,000 metres with a head cold and chest cough (and yes Mum, I am looking after myself) and the vulnerability of it just being you and your bike.

We headed off out of Puno just after sun rise under a bitterly cold blue sky. The night before the rain had bucketed down so heavily that it had left a fine dusting of snow on the mountains that surrounded the town. We were covered from head to toe in our warmest gear, but were still very cold and the only thing to warm us up was…to cycle.

When you first start out again after a few days rest, it takes a while for your body to get back into the swing of things and when you are out of breath after the first 10 minutes, you begin to question AGAIN where the crazy gene came from that made you decide to cycle through South America.

Alas, there was nowhere to turn but onwards and upwards. We only had a short day planned to make it to Juli, a little town half way between Puno and the Bolivian border town of Kasani, and as we started out so early we were finished with our cycling by midday. Not much to do with our afternoon but sit in the square and watch the locals; mainly drunk men trying to kiss Simon’s hand. Because the town was so small, we were the ones being stared at as we were certain they didn’t see many gringos on bright silver bikes cycle into town in the middle of a street parade. Needless to say it was hard for us to lay low and inconspicuous.

We did come across a smartly dressed young American Mormon Missionary attempting to convert the masses! It is interesting to note here that Mormons dress the same the world over - black trousers, white shirts and a tie, and as a result I picked him a mile off. He was an interesting character and had been posted to Peru for 2 years. He was helpful for one thing - telling us that there were no places to eat in Juli as he had been sick every time he had eaten in a restaurant. So, we settled for Doritos and chocolate bars and an early night.

Who can say that they have woken up in Peru and gone to bed in Bolivia, after cycling 64 km on their 30^th birthday? Not many, except me! I couldn’t really believe that the alarm woke us up at 0430 - it was my birthday! But I knew the earlier we started the earlier we would finish. We were also aiming to reach the border before lunch time so as to avoid a good fleecing by the border control. As it turned out, we didn’t have anything to worry about. It was a synch.

As we cycled over the border (with stamps in our passports this time) the sun started to shine and the clouds cleared to reveal a beautiful blue sky, and a Mediterraneanesque looking Copacabana nestled in a gorgeous cove and our home for the following 3 nights.

Lately, this blog writing has become a little bit of a chore. So, apologies all round for the yawn factor of this one, but the Mountain Goat’s photos make up for it I think. Also, wanted to send a huge congratulations to Jono and Frisky for the birth of my second niece, Madeline Grace, and to say thanks to my brothers and sister for remembering my birthday (this is said with great sarcasm!)..