Blood, Sweat & Tears
Since leaving Trevelin the roads have turned Bolivian and the weather decidedly Chilean (readers, that means wet, wet and wetter). There has been blood, sweat and tears; blood from the wrist (no I haven’t slashed them yet) caused by a fall on gravel roads, twice; sweat - think Gortex and boil in the bag rice; tears caused partly by the blood and partly by the Hound Dog [formerly known as the Mountain Goat and affectionately known as Simonsky, his Polish name, but no affection deserved in the Hound Dog instance] due to him riding on my tail and hounding me to cycle faster up the hill in the rain on gravel. Needless to say "words" were exchanged, lunch was thrown, and "discussions" were had. Oh the joy of the journey!
So, you now find us in Chile. Crossing the border was interesting to say the least. The Argentine border guards, filling in time and attempting to curtail their boredom (pun intended) took great interest in Simonsky’s black bag full of kit. I think they suspected we were more than just your average cycle tourist and have put our names on some red alert list - I mean who in their right mind carries a sat phone, laptop, GPS and hypodermic needles and isn’t on an undercover mission? We had three guards pull bits and pieces out of the bags, inspect them, ask what they were used for and leave on the table for us to pack back into the bags. We have no idea what they were looking for, but they didn’t find it, and thankfully we didn’t have to empty all the bags. I am so over packing!
The Chileans were a lot less suspicious and just asked what bag we had the food in. Perhaps they were scouting for a good lunch, but cupa soup and day old bread rolls aren’t that appetising. Trust me.
The day we left Trevelin was absolutely beautiful; blue skies, sunshine, hard compacted roads and even a paved section of road. Oh what a treat. The 17th flat tyre of the trip didn’t even dampen our spirits as we rolled into Futalefu, summer tans coming along nicely thanks, after an easy first day back on the road.
Futalefu has become one of the top spots in the world for white water rafting. Originally settled in the 1920’s the town completely depended on Argentina for supplies until a horse trail was built to connect it with the Chilean coast in the 1930’s. It wasn’t until the completion of the Carretera Austral in 1988 that Futalefu became connected to the rest of Chile by road. Imagine that! Living in a town that was totally disconnected from any other part of the country. Just like living on an island I guess. Very Tasmanian. We feel very much that we have entered the outpost zone.
The following day, sun still shining, we headed further south to find newly graded gravel roads. The gravel in this part of the world seems to consist of large pebbles the size of cricket balls. This makes it almost impossible to cycle, hence the blood and the tears. When the roads are so slow going, it makes the day very tiring, and testing. You don’t even have a hot shower at the end of it to look forward to. Note to self: must ask myself why I am touring through South America on a push bike!
After too many hills, and too much rain we stopped for an early day to dry out in Villa Santa Lucia where we joined the Carretera Austral. The wood fired heater in our cabana was more than put to the test let me tell you. We were frozen to the bone and needed time to thaw out. We have never appreciated more the need to be dry and warm. We are finding on this trip that it is the simple things like hot showers, and dry clothes that keep us happy. Lets just hope we can bring such a simple appreciation of the little things back to our frantic lives when we return.
With dread we embarked on the road south along the Carretera but were pleasantly surprised to find hard packed mud roads that made our cycling consistent and smooth. There is nothing more satisfying than watching the kilometers tick over, even if it is pouring with rain and the inclines are crippling. Needless to say we haven’t had to carry much water with us. It is everywhere.
Unfortunately a poor restaurant choice and dodgy fish in Puyuhuapi (where during World War II the German immigrants who settled the area in the early 1930’s were believed to be setting up a supply base for German submarines) forced an extra rest day, but we did manage to get to the thermal spas for a dip and witness a pod of dolphins playing in the fjord. We could only imagine what you guys back home were doing!
So, after a few more days of incredible scenery, unseasonable sunshine, grueling graded roads, delicious banana cake, rolling hills and a welcome paved section, you now find us in Coyhaique. We have also had a breakthrough. The Hound Dog has changed his tune and now, after reaching the top of the hill, walks down and pushes my bike (with me still on it) from behind. This IS love, and seems to be working rather nicely thanks very much!
A couple of days rest and then we are back on the road south. Destination Villa O’Higgins and then back into Argentina. We are finding Chile very expensive so getting back to our beloved Argentina will be a welcome change. By the way, we are still accepting contributions to the SIJEN Adventure Fund. See below for account details 
>>and witness a pod of dolphins playing in the fjord. We could only imagine what you guys back home were doing!
Actually, I saw a clump of chavs on a street corner the other day. They were smoking and swearing. It was the kind of beautiful sight that you just don’t get in places like Chile and Argentina.
Actually you´d be wrong. Chavs exist even in the arse end of the world at Villa O´Higgins! That said, I can imagine what a beautiful sight I am missing! Still not long till we´re back. I hope that network cable still keeps dropping between the desks?
Dear Mr Jensen
On behalf of the SIJEN Adventure Contribution Fund I am writing to advise that there seems to be a delay in your monthly donation.
We are therefore very concerned that your installment may have been lost in translation (or the post for that matter - Royal Mail can be impossible at this time of the year) and therefore advise you to rectify the problem immediately before we are forced to take legal action.
Should you require any further information please do not hesitate to contact us.
Regards
Fund Manager
Actually, Mrs Manager, I looked for details of the SIJEN fund to determine whether I should divert funds from the RSPCA, World Wildlife Fund and other worthy causes. Unfortunately, I could not find any details on the site (I blame the web developer, personally) so I decided that you fund must have closed.
Regards
Gary
actually, we were sitting in a pub in front of a warm fireplace, eating steak and kidney pie and knocking back a few pints of Tetleys - all right here in Washington state!
now THAT was an adventure almost comparable to frolicking dolphins.
Isn’t getting warmer as you go south?
So no kite surfing in Chile?
Love from Ruth
Now Ruthy!
No need to rub in warm fireplaces and steak and ale pies…we have already mentioned on several occassions how much we miss the Steak & Tanglefoot pie and how when we get home we will be hightailing it to the nearest St Peter´s Finger for a dose! But thank you for the kind reminder.
There has been no kite surfing of yet..although Simon has entertained the idea of several sessions across wind bitten fjords. He can have the freezing water as far as I am concered…I will just watch him from my sleeping bag (that is feather downed and can cope with temperatures of -20 degrees thank you very much…) Needless to say I don´t like the cold weather especially when you have been cycling in it all day and you are soaked to the bone from sweat and rain…not a good combination.
We are having the time of our lives though. Stuck in Villa O´Higgins at the moment waiting for a ferry crossing to Argentine…this will be a story to tell I am sure.
Love to Steve
Jen xx
Nice to hear Simon’s in love.. not just with himself i mean..can’t quite work out why he is pushing you down hill though, are you sure its love? I mean there wasn’t a big cliff at the bottom was there?
Try getting him to push you up hill next time…tell him its a test, tell him he will not pass unless he continues all the way to the sea side..
Oh just to let you have a taste of life here…think about a nice curry..fish and chips..a hot bath with a nice cup of tea, radio 4 with a lie in on sunday morning..a full english breakfast…loveley, you can almost smell it from there..
Happy days
roebine
Why do you always give me great ideas!
So life´s good huh? you better had those breakfasts down to a pat when I get to you! Kind of looking forward to having a base again.
We really are in the arse end of the world here, waiting for a ferry to take us across another fjord to cross by foot into Argentina, luckily with a horse to carry the equipment. We´ll post a new blog soon.
Just so you know, you´re kind of missed, why Montenegro eh??
Tommy
I am getting fat and lazy…its great! winter pounds…I am just getting more and more wobbly every day…hibernation is a wonderful thing.
I tried to find you on the map but all i could see was a large red balloon thing..is that you? any way i have sent you a christmas card, although the address was a bit vague..its the thought that counts eh..
happy days
roebine
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I need to know what instruments were used in the song I Love You More then You’ll Ever Know by BS&T, the Original with Al Cooper.
I need to know what instruments were used in the song I Love You More then You’ll Ever Know by BS&T, the Original with Al Cooper. Thanks
What are goods songs to go with the theme of blood sweat and tears?
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I am aware that the formed elements of blood are Red Blood Cells, White Blood Cells, and Platelets. However I thought that this is only outside the blood plasma. My book says that when formed elements are removed from blood, blood plasma is left.
What is the sweat and tears made up of,the water we drink?
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The proper title for this post should be “Blood, Sweat, Tears and The Tour’
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Bloods rock to the right and Crips rock to the left. But The Game is a Blood but he has his tear drop under his left eye.What eye do Bloods have tear drops under and what eye do Crips have tear drops under.
I feel so dead inside. I put my blood, sweat & tears into those vids. Am I justified in still feeling bad about this? How do I get over this.
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They take grand strides to make sure this is just a one-off; like the “unusual cold winter in parts of the NH”. Always make sure you don’t leave the party line, kids.
Last week the season 3 premiere episode of “Secret Diary of a Call Girl” practically opened after she had sex with her walking down the hall to “spinning wheel” by blood sweat and tears except that it was not blood sweat and tears but some female singing it. It was awesome! Thanks…
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Last week the season 3 premiere episode of “Secret Diary of a Call Girl” practically opened after she had sex with her walking down the hall to “spinning wheel” by blood sweat and tears except that it was not blood sweat and tears but some female singing it. It was awesome! Anyone know who that was, I would love to own that version of the song!
I can understand, how difficult would be your long journey.You roam over 5 countries and felt and experienced different people and culture.Great post…
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is an American music group, originally formed in 1967 in New York City. Since its beginnings in 1967, the band has gone through numerous iterations with varying personnel and has encompassed a multitude of musical styles. What the band is most known for, from its start, is the fusing of rock, blues, pop music, horn arrangements and jazz improvisation into a hybrid that came to be known as “jazz-rock”. Unlike “jazz fusion” bands, which tend toward virtuostic displays of instrumental facility and some experimentation with electric instruments, the songs of Blood, Sweat & Tears merged the stylings of rock, pop and R&B/soul music with big band, while also adding elements of 20th Century Classical and small combo jazz traditions.
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Last week the season 3 premiere episode of “Secret Diary of a Call Girl” practically opened after she had sex with her walking down the hall to “spinning wheel” by blood sweat and tears except that it was not blood sweat and tears but some female singing it. It was awesome! Anyone know who that was, I would love to own that version of the song!
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I need to know what instruments were used in the song I Love You More then You’ll Ever Know by BS&T, the Original with Al Cooper. Thanks
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The Chileans were a lot less suspicious and just asked what bag we had the food in.
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The Chileans were a lot less suspicious and just asked what bag we had the food in.
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I loved over the top! I thought he just disintegrated into the european scene or something cos I haven’t heard anything recently by him.
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