a self-supported bicycle tour through South America

3^rd October to 9^th October: Uyuni – Salta – Mendoza (15km on bike)

Well what a change, Bolivia to Argentina and suddenly things are a hell of a lot more pleasant! Paved roads, good food and infinitely better service!

In order to get further south to give us more time to cycle the lake districts and down the Carretera Austral, we had to do the coach thing and go from Villazon to Salta and then Salta to Mendoza.

In a nutshell the traveling on the coaches hasn’t been that bad, we’re now used to the whole drama and ensuring that all the bags are loaded along with the bikes, hence the rapid descent south to Mendoza.

So, our last day in Uyuni was spent waiting for the train and was just painful. Seeming to go on forever with nothing out of the ordinary happening, the boredom factor was high. We hoped that we might be treated to the quality and luxuries of the last train journey we rode, the Andean Explorer from Cusco to Puno in  Peru, but that wasn’t the case. That said, the train was pretty comfortable with the usual reclining chairs, all allocated of course, a blanket and pillow to make it just slightly more bearable, although the heat in the carriage was unreal!

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29^th September to 2^nd October: Salinas – Incahuasi (74km) – Uyuni (96km)

With 16 kilos of water loaded onto the bikes, we started out early the following day. Neither of us had slept well - we are not sure if it was because of the too soft beds at the hostel or the excitement of finally getting on the Salar de Uyuni. Nevertheless, we made great ground back on the salt with the wind behind us before we hit the mountain pass which required mostly pushing over boulders and uphill. Yay!

But at the top was our reward; our first view of the fabled Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt lake in the world. We couldn’t wait to get onto it, so with GPS to hand we started our crossing to our first port of call, Isla de Incahuasi, a mere 42km away.

We were really excited about being on the salt lake as it was a part of the trip that we had very much been looking forward to and had heard so much about. It was everything and more than we had expected, but was nevertheless a completely surreal experience. After days of washboard and sandy roads, it was so lovely to be able to pick up speed. The salt was hard and crunchy and even with the wind in front of us and extra weight we were having fun.

The contrast of the white salt and blue, blue sky made for a spectacular scene. We had never experienced anything like it in our lives and have both commented that it was probably the best thing we have ever done…ever! We had read that the Salar was busy with Toyota Land cruiser traffic, but guessing it was because of the remote direction we had come from we seemed to have the Lake to ourselves; an absolute pleasure. Read the rest of this entry »

24th - 27th September

Potosi - Challapata 178km (bus) - Quillacas (54km) -Castilluma 57km - Salinas de Garcia Mendoza 15km

Quick Note: Due to Bolivian internet speeds being so slow we haven´t been able to get all the photos uploaded which is a real shame! We will get them posted as soon as we get into Argentina…

Update: New photos added now we´re in Argentina

After 4 days of taking it easy and loaded up with anti-inflamatories for the “one dodgy knee”, we bussed out of Potosi back en-route to Challapata. It was rather demoralizing being back on a Bolivian bus with the baby chickens, BO, and badly dubbed Clint Eastwood Westerns, but at least we were back on the road.

With a storm brewing, we hightailed it out of Challapata after having “discussions” with the bus driver over our ticket as he seemed to want us to pay again. Although frustrating most of the time, the language barrier can often carry the tag “ignorance is bliss”!

On the way out of town, I ran into a low lying wall (trying to avoid sandy patches in the road) and as a result scraped a hole into my back pannier. Terse words were muttered over the now lack of water resistance my pannier would have (especially as we were about to experience our first downpour of the trip) as the Mountain Goat made a quick gaffa tape repair - McGyver eat your heart out! Read the rest of this entry »

So morning came and we awoke somewhat later than expected but that was due to the fact it was only about 4°C inside the tent. Outside, the pot of water we left from the previous night was frozen, and the tent and bikes all had frost on them. 

So like lizards we slowly moved and got our arses into gear as the sun rose over the mountain to the east. It took much longer than usual partly due to the cold and also due to the fact that my knee was really hurting even with a full nights rest behind it. I was extremely concerned about the knee given that the previous day it had come from nowhere, and now it was hurting just to walk around on it; this could spell disaster but we’d have to see how it held up.

Sure enough the moment I got back on the bike the pain started, barely able to pedal I decided to unclip my right leg and pedal with the left, which worked for a while, but only as the wind was behind us (for a change) and that it was flat.

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14^th – 18^thSeptember > Copacabana – La Paz – Oruro – Challapata (104km)

Copacabana was a pleasant surprise I guess not what I had expected. We had been recommended La Cupula, a hostel type place which was perched on the side of one of the hills that surrounded the bay of Copacabana. We arrived to discover there was room spare and so we were shown to our large room complete with our own kitchen; this turned out to be great storage space for the bikes.

We had a day off to simply enjoy the scenery and do some planning for the activities like visiting the Isla Del Sol (Island of the Sun) where the Inca’s believed the sun was created. This consisted quite simply of going down the main drag of Copacabana and walking into on e of the many shops selling tourist tours of various descriptions and buying a ticket. At the end of the day, it didn’t really matter as the whole format is the same with whoever you bought a ticket from. The usual scene; milk some minor tourist setting, get the punters on the boat, drop them off on the island, let them walk to the other end of the island, pick them up and drop them back home. Oh, I forgot, try and get them to spend as much money as you can by fleecing them for walking along a coastal path with some “Inca ruins”.

So yes, I’m starting to sound cynical. But what really pisses me off, is seeing some blue eyed western European dude who believes he’s gone native trying to sell the usual necklace and bangle tat on the side of the path; it just makes a complete mockery of the whole tourism thing.

So that was really the Isle Del Sol in a nutshell. The scenery was however stunning, and it amazes me that no one has tapped into yacht charter business on Lake Titicaca. It is simply a beautiful place and I’d imagine if Bolivia was somehow a little more stable then more sails would be seen across the horizon.

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12^th - 13^thSeptember Puno - Juli (81km) - Copacabana (64km)

After nearly 3 weeks of being regular tourists, we had mixed feelings about getting back on the bikes to cycle through to Bolivia. We had enjoyed being regular tourists for a while (and feeling we could get the camera out without fear of it being nicked!), but after clocking the same people in the same restaurants every night all talking about the same thing we were starting to get a little bored with the whole tourist thing and were very much looking forward to getting back to the freedom of the bike.

The freedom of the bike however does bring with it added pressures; exercising at 4,000 metres with a head cold and chest cough (and yes Mum, I am looking after myself) and the vulnerability of it just being you and your bike.

We headed off out of Puno just after sun rise under a bitterly cold blue sky. The night before the rain had bucketed down so heavily that it had left a fine dusting of snow on the mountains that surrounded the town. We were covered from head to toe in our warmest gear, but were still very cold and the only thing to warm us up was…to cycle.

When you first start out again after a few days rest, it takes a while for your body to get back into the swing of things and when you are out of breath after the first 10 minutes, you begin to question AGAIN where the crazy gene came from that made you decide to cycle through South America.

Alas, there was nowhere to turn but onwards and upwards. We only had a short day planned to make it to Juli, a little town half way between Puno and the Bolivian border town of Kasani, and as we started out so early we were finished with our cycling by midday. Not much to do with our afternoon but sit in the square and watch the locals; mainly drunk men trying to kiss Simon’s hand. Because the town was so small, we were the ones being stared at as we were certain they didn’t see many gringos on bright silver bikes cycle into town in the middle of a street parade. Needless to say it was hard for us to lay low and inconspicuous.

We did come across a smartly dressed young American Mormon Missionary attempting to convert the masses! It is interesting to note here that Mormons dress the same the world over - black trousers, white shirts and a tie, and as a result I picked him a mile off. He was an interesting character and had been posted to Peru for 2 years. He was helpful for one thing - telling us that there were no places to eat in Juli as he had been sick every time he had eaten in a restaurant. So, we settled for Doritos and chocolate bars and an early night.

Who can say that they have woken up in Peru and gone to bed in Bolivia, after cycling 64 km on their 30^th birthday? Not many, except me! I couldn’t really believe that the alarm woke us up at 0430 - it was my birthday! But I knew the earlier we started the earlier we would finish. We were also aiming to reach the border before lunch time so as to avoid a good fleecing by the border control. As it turned out, we didn’t have anything to worry about. It was a synch.

As we cycled over the border (with stamps in our passports this time) the sun started to shine and the clouds cleared to reveal a beautiful blue sky, and a Mediterraneanesque looking Copacabana nestled in a gorgeous cove and our home for the following 3 nights.

Lately, this blog writing has become a little bit of a chore. So, apologies all round for the yawn factor of this one, but the Mountain Goat’s photos make up for it I think. Also, wanted to send a huge congratulations to Jono and Frisky for the birth of my second niece, Madeline Grace, and to say thanks to my brothers and sister for remembering my birthday (this is said with great sarcasm!)..

8 - 11^th September. Puno - Lake Titicaca, Uros, and Taquile

Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable body of water 3,830m above sea level covering more than 8, 500 sq km. When we arrived in Puno at dusk it felt strange to see such a large body of water stretching to the horizon. It looks like an ocean and it takes some reminding to appreciate that it is actually a lake.

After a little research and a degree of reluctance to take an organised tour, we decided to bite the bullet and pay our £5 to take a tour of the Lake with a group. It was surprisingly very, very enjoyable despite us feeling a little like we were the ones being exploited by the locals.

Uros are a group of islands that are made entirely out of floating reeds. The experience of being on them was rather surreal and perhaps a little like walking on water. The islands are kept afloat simply by adding more layers of chopped reed, and as the layers rot away more reeds are added. We were told that when the islanders have a wedding or a party (that usually go on for 4 days) the island begins to sink because of all the visitors and they have been too busy partying to bother with chopping the reeds, so for days after they are kept busy “rebuilding”.

The whole scenario of Uros and people living on floating reeds with solar powered panels attached precariously to their reed houses is rather improbable. The boat loads of tourists descend each day to “select” islands to be met by the island leader who explains how the islands are built. You are then entertained by singing, a ride in a reed boat and then of course you are shown local tat to buy at a nominal rate. You are being fleeced at every given opportunity, but at the same time you feel an obligation as you are in their home…so to speak. Read the rest of this entry »

5^th - 8th^th September. Cusco, then to Puno

After arriving in Cusco 4 hours later than scheduled we experienced the return of the altitude headache once again. Yay, what joy! We were, however a little more prepared than we had been in Huaraz and had taken drugs to prepare for our arrival so our acclimatisation was relatively painless. The waterfall weeing did return though.

Cusco is beautiful. The colonial architecture is grand to say the least and the city is a bustling centre for all sorts of travellers and tourists. The locals take great advantage of the travel weary tourist harassing you at every given opportunity, which becomes very tiring.

One loses count of the number of 4 year olds that approach you in the street wanting to sell you postcards, paintings, knitted dolls, woven belts and baby alpacas. One young fella even offered Simon a postcard in exchange for his Nikon camera, and when we laughed at him he said “ok, how about one and a half then”! We had to give him credit for his sense of humour. We also had two little girls approach us wanting to sell dolls. One asked us where we were from. After we told her she promptly and rather formerly replied “England, capital London. Australia, capital Canberra”. We were mucho impressed. Hardly anyone knows that Canberra is the capital of Australia!

These youngsters are sadly far too mature and street savvy for their age, but you can understand how and why. Their life is hard and poor from a very young age. They are just doing what they are told and what they know. Throughout the main plaza there were loads of women dressed in traditional costume, young babies, children, and baby alpacas in tow demanding money for photos. We even saw a little girl, perhaps two years old holding a puppy chasing after a couple walking down the street. She was so gorgeous but gosh what a stark reminder of the haves and have nots. Certainly makes us appreciate so much more what we have.

On our second day we headed to world renowned, always wanted to see, couldn’t wait, recently named 7th Wonder of the World Machu Picchu. The train journey, leaving at 0600, was rather exciting for the first 2 hours, but by the last 2 hours we couldn’t keep our eyes open. The scenery was incredible though as we snaked our way through the Sacred Valley of the Incas. A catnap (note to self: ear plugs not needed for short periods of the Mountain Goat napping - must try to think of world breakthrough cure for snoring), and a ham and cheese roll later we were herded onto the bus for the 20 minute ride up the mountain.

For those of you unaware (those who are please feel free to add comment for discussion) Machu Picchu was founded in 1911 by American Hiram Bingham who was in search of the hidden city of the Incas. He was lead to the site of Machu Picchu by a local farmer. Overgrown with jungle and inhabited by a single family he did not think this was what he was looking for and continued on his travels. A year later he returned and cleared the site uncovering the fabled “lost city of the Incas”. The majority of the site has been repaired over the years which make for a spectacular view and a better understanding of the life of the 600 inhabitants.

All the glossy photos you have seen of this impressive site - the only significant Inca site to escape the ravenous appetites of the conquistadors of the 16^th century (because it was hidden in the clouds!) - are true to form. So true in fact that you feel you have been there before. The amount of tourists visiting each day is staggering at 3500 during the peak season! Unfortunately for us, a Herbalife conference group was in town for the weekend and decided to descend on Machu Picchu the day we did yelling, screaming, blowing whistles and dotting the landscape with fluorescent green rain jackets. I don’t think the Incas had this in mind when they built their city to complement the majesty of the location. Hey ho. Read the rest of this entry »

Huaraz - Lima

Sorry for the slight delay in getting the blog to you (especially Andy, I know how you like the news) but we’ve been pretty busy!

So, Lima is almost over. We sit here in the departure lounge pretty glad we are almost at the end of our (hopefully) last major travel excursion that doesn’t involve us cycling.

We made it to Lima on the night bus from Huaraz, in a relatively painless manner with the noticeable exception of Jen, who was kept awake by the bloke behind us who started to snore! Ironically, I was silent throughout the journey which makes a change to most nights apparently, but for those that know me, it’s no wonder I never woke to hear him. Funnily enough, this morning when I woke up to breakfast arriving at the door for 6am, Jen asked if I felt the slight earthquake tremor a few minutes earlier. It didn’t surprise me that I never knew anything of it, as I slept through the October storms way back in the 80’s when our willow tree blew down and crashed through our neighbours’ roof!

As it turned out, our main purpose in Lima was to get our visa issue sorted out as the prospect of not getting out of Peru, or being deported hung over us like a black cloud; my main concern being that of Bubba, the soap and a Peruvian jail.

The absolutely useless Sheraton hotel, which we booked because we knew we needed assistance from the Concierge and Business Centre to get everything resolved, like visa’s, bike servicing, bike boxes etc were useless in a nutshell (apart from Emily who was very helpful!). We asked the Concierge (whom it must be said never frigging works, apart from between the hours of 3-4am on 29^th February) to help us because of the Spanish/English translation issue by phoning the Immigration Office to see where we needed to go? He then directed us to the Immigration office and yes we were told it was open on a Saturday until 1700. When we got there at 1230 the sign on the door advised that they closed at 1200. So, back to the concierge who then directed us to the airport to see a lady called Rita or some other chap (I forget his name). Upon arrival at the airport, a 30 minute taxi ride out of the city centre, we eventually made it to an office where a woman (Erica) sat. She kind of understood what we were asking; however when she saw our piece of paper with the name of Rita on it, decided to make a phone call to her. She told us to go upstairs near international departures and wait at some security counter for Rita to meet us.

Cutting a long story short, she never arrived, but another man from her department did. He went away and then re-appeared and basically said that as we were not flying and didn’t have a boarding card for a flight, we’d have to go to the central immigration office in Lima! And the office wasn’t open until Monday.

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29^th - 31^st August : Lazy Dog Inn

After two nights of being Lazy Dogs, we find ourselves enjoying the food and a mint tea (yes, the tummy bug has reared its ugly head again) back at Cafe Andino in Huaraz for the 9 hour wait until our coach leaves for Lima. Our time at the Inn was lovely and relaxing. We did very little apart from update the website, eat, and enjoy the scenery at 3,900 meters. The Inn was an eco lodge, which meant home grown organic veggies, pit style loos and communal dining. The Mountain Goat isn’t too keen on doing things in groups. He is a solitary beast who likes his own space. Nevertheless, he had an audience in our fellow Lazy Dogs over dinner and breakfast, and to my surprise I wasn’t even able to get a word in!

It was nice meeting other travellers and hearing their stories, but to be honest we had so much to do with the website and photos that these conversations were a bit of an unwelcome distraction. As the Inn was fully booked for our first night there, we pitched the tent in the grounds and so enjoyed the lounge and open fire with everyone else…including the three lazy dogs; Otis, Max, and Freddie (this wasn’t his name but he looked like the Freddie that Simon had as a child) so we renamed him.

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